FAQs About Giant Sequoia Trees

Your tree is roughly 1 year old. At this stage, the sapling is too small to be planted in its permanent location. Instead, plant it in a larger container for the first year or two.

Helpful tip: Before planting the tree in a pot, check the moisture level of the roots. If the tree feels dry, give it water right away.

A 1–3 gallon container pot is recommended. Make sure the container has multiple drainage holes at the bottom. Use high-quality, well-draining potting soil. Fill the container with soil and plant the sapling up to the top of the plug. Ensure the plug stands upright; you do not need to spread the roots. Water thoroughly, then place the pot outside in a sunny spot. 

For the first few years, while your tree is growing in a container pot, we recommend using a slow-release fertilizer. A few that we have used are Andersons 18-6-12 or Espoma Evergreen tone 4-3-4. We do recommend a low to medium rate, follow the instructions on the label.  Once the tree is ready to be planted in the ground, ensure a sufficiently large hole is dug to add well-draining, nutrient-rich soil.

You want your sequoia to stop growing towards the end of the season to “harden off.” You do not want new sensitive growth to occur before the winter. This allows the new growth to get stronger to survive the winter better.

Helpful tip: A fall feeding can be applied, which usually has a lower Nitrogen rate. Low Nitrogen does not stimulate new growth.  Early spring feedings will have a higher Nitrogen rate.

Sequoias prefer to dry out slightly between waterings. Avoid keeping the soil constantly saturated. When the bottom of the container has just a little water remaining, it’s time to water again. Remember: as the pot dries, the roots grow and search for moisture.

How do I avoid drought stress or drying out my sequoia tree?

• Mulch around newly planted trees to retain soil moisture.
• Deep-water weekly during dry periods.
• Avoid letting the soil dry out completely.

Is overwatering a concern when in a pot?

Yes. Overwatering, or waterlogging, the soil can cause root rot for your tree, just like other plants. Ensure the soil drains well and keep it lightly moist.

Once your tree has outgrown its pot, it’s time to plant it in its final location. spring and fall are the best times to do this. Remember, you're planting one of the largest trees in the world, so give it ample space and avoid placing it near power lines.

Before planting, check if the roots are circling the pot. If they are, carefully cut vertical slits into the root ball all the way around; it will not harm the tree. You can also gently loosen and spread the roots to prevent girdling later in life. Dig a hole at least 6 inches wider and deeper than the pot. When refilling, combine native soil with some potting soil for better structure.

After planting, water deeply. Continue to monitor and care for your tree. During droughts, provide water, and in the spring, apply a slow-release fertilizer around the trunk. If deer are common in your area, consider using a small protective fence. For the first few winters, especially in cold or windy climates, protect your tree. A wind barrier made from burlap or other breathable material will help prevent winter burns.

Helpful tip: Make sure your tree is away from any surrounding buildings or power lines.

Our 1-gallon trees are large enough to be planted directly into the ground. If you prefer a larger size before transplanting, repot into a 3–5 gallon container and continue following the container care instructions above.

Full sun is ideal, but if you live in an area with intense summer heat, provide partial shade during the hottest periods. Seedlings will do well in partial shade but may grow slower. See more with our planning instructions.

They can be grown indoors temporarily. Outdoor planting is necessary for long-term survival.

During the cold winter months, younger sequoias are subject to changing color. This is natural. These are pigments that are already present in the tree that the color brings out. Although it may look like the tree is dying, it is natural, and the warmer season will bring the green back into the sequoia. Sequoias that are protected from the wind will most often not experience this. Protecting the tree from snow, a windbreak, or in a non-heated garage, if still in a pot, will help the tree from discoloring.

Sequoia seedlings are sensitive to extreme frost. Trees and seedlings that are planted in states with winters (zones 5-6) should be winter-protected for the first 2–3 years. Once the tree is established, it will handle the winters more easily. Sequoias may struggle to survive in zones colder than six due to the harsh winters.

Helpful tip for planted trees: Protect young trees from winter freeze or wind burn by using a burlap wrap or tree guards and mulching the base heavily.

Helpful tip for potted trees: If you live in a location with cold winters, place your pot in an unheated garage, shed, or barn for the first few winters. This will keep your roots and tree protected from the cold and wind. When protecting your tree during the winter, your goal is to keep the tree dormant. Water your sequoia right before it starts to freeze for the winter. Do not let the pot dry out during the winter.  Periodical watering may be necessary.

For both potted and transplanted trees, early spring is the perfect time to feed to encourage new growth. Late summer/early fall is optional, but avoid heavy fertilization in late fall to prevent frost stress.

Small brown tips on older needles are normal. Extensive browning may indicate root issues or drought stress.